After a hectic weekend at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival (KMF), I find myself flung back in to my home life of DIY, work and dreaming of climbing. Once again I’m back from the festival with a head full of ideas of where my next adventure may lie.
As a much younger climber I had little time for events like KMF. “I’d much rather be out on the mountain than stuck in a pub talking about being on a mountain.” was my thinking.
But now I realise that films, books, photographs, facebook posts, guidebooks, topos, articles, they are all important to our sport. Sometimes they inspire, sometimes they really don’t, but the concept of sharing of information, of ideas, and of the beauty of the mountains is important.
I’ve written literally hundreds of articles, and I’ve climbed hundreds of routes too and I look back on both with a similar eye. They often blur in to one. Maybe I just need glasses! Anyway, I’ve forgotten many routes I’ve climbed, and I’ve forgotten many articles I’ve written. But some routes, and some articles will always be special to me.
A couple of years ago a friend climbed the Brandler-Hasse route on the Cima Grande in the Dolomites. Arriving on a ledge they found a small cache, left by some previous climbers. In that cache was a print out of an article I wrote in June of 2007. It was the first article I put together for UKClimbing.com, and when I heard that someone had printed the article and used it around five years later, I was pleased and proud.
The same thing happened this year, a different friend came across another article of mine, this time stashed in the Argentiere Hut, beneath the Courtes North Face. Again I felt pleased and also proud, and to be honest I had forgotten I had even written that one!
So where am I going with this ramble?
Media makers out there – it has never been easier to ‘share your passion’. The internet has married almost cost-free publishing with the possibility of reaching a potentially endless audience. But before you write your article, or post your photograph – just think for a second; “Why?”.
Does your post inspire, inform, entertain or educate? What is the purpose of your film? Why are you telling this story? Is it for yourself, or is it for your audience, whoever that may be.
There is nothing wrong with vanity publishing of course (look at this blog!), but the media that stands the test of time will be that which grabs the viewer with both hands and drags them out of their seat and on to the mountain. That which shows them the stunning vista from the summit of a remote peak, and gives them a hint on how to get there themselves. Or that which shows and then inspires in others the true determination and human spirit needed to achieve the seemingly impossible.
So I say this: Climb a mountain and write an article or make a film. But try and include at least a little bit of ‘look at this’ as well as a good bit of ‘look at me’. I dare you!
There’s something intensely personal about pushing yourself in sport. At an elite ‘amateur’ level in rock climbing there’s no big pressure to try hard, there’s no technical support, no physiotherapy team, no nothing, you’re out there on your own, making your own decisions and mistakes.
National climbing teams may have some more support of course, and the very best or most famous and successful climbers in the world (you can count them on your fingers!) can afford to pay for sports physios, and just by the fact that they are that good and famous, a lot of doors to knowledge are opened for them, be that from other experienced peers and other climbers, or team coaches etc.
However, for the majority of us, the most we can expect is our mate to buy us a beer if we climb our hardest route, and to be honest even that is a rarity (are you reading this Steve… where’s my pint?!).
Yet, despite all of this I have countless friends who are fantastic climbers, pushing themselves really hard, and sometimes having a lot of fun doing so, but sometimes they are not having fun.
Stress, disappointment, fear, and anger are all common emotions to find out on the crag. (I’m talking sport climbing here).
This past week sport climbing in Turkey I have seen people scared to fall in safe situations (very common, it happens to everyone) but then getting very stressed or disappointed with themselves for being like that. Also I’ve seen people afraid to commit to climbs due to being intimidated. I’ve seen people screaming swear words and actually punching themselves on the head for not being able to do the moves on their personal project.
Surely the guy (who almost gave himself brain damage by punching his own head!) on the 7c+ realises that no one else in the world cares if he can climb this route? That it isn’t a big deal? But for him it is a big deal. His frustration and anger are all his own creation, but for him they are 100% real, and despite doing no good for his climbing, he easily slips in to that stressed state. If nothing else, maybe he should get a helmet!
Seriously though, much more rare is the ‘happy faller’. Up they go, trying as hard as they can (Jonny Baker) and then with a hoot and a laugh, they peel from the rock when the moves get too hard, laughing all the way until the rope comes tight.
I must confess that I am in-between the two, I don’t punch my own head, and most of the time I am having a lot of fun climbing, but I do occasionally get a little stressed, but it gets less and less the older I get.
Recently I have been reading a few books based around this 10,000 hours rule of elite ability – the concept that anyone can be an elite performer at anything if they put in 10,000 hours of focussed practice. (I was started on this subject by fellow climber James McHaffie, who recommended the book Bounce).
One of these books – which I think is the best I have read so far (James, you should read it) – is The Sports Gene by David Epstein. David talks (as do many other authors on this subject) about Conscious Bandwidth. The phenomenon whereby an experienced athlete has basically more spare brain power to notice things going on. In the middle of a hectic football game, a seasoned professional sees everything that is happening on the field. It’s the same in rock climbing. Climbers with more experience read moves faster and more accurately, they get less phased by blank looking sections of rock, and basically they are just way more relaxed and in tune with what is going on around them.
That’s all well and good for actually performing well on the rock, and if you get your 10,000 hours in whilst you are still young, you can be an elite climber before you leave school… but… being less stressed with your climbing seems to come with age, not necessarily climbing experience, so I wonder if the same mental bandwidth broadening is happening with age but in a much wider sense? A wider sense of self?
At the age of 33 I have more life experience than when I was 23, and that experience gives me the wider perspective that means I hardly ever punch myself in the head when I can’t climb 7c+ 😉
At the age of 73 will my general life experience give me a much wider sense of what is going on around me? Will I see ‘pointless’ sport climbing projects as just that or will I see a deeper meaning in the things I have achieved as a younger man? A meaning that right now I don’t have the capacity to notice? Or will I simply remember back about how I could move fluidly over the rock, and enjoy that feeling of movement, with nothing deeper attached.
I don’t know, but I do know that I enjoy seeing and talking to climbers of different ages and experience, and I really enjoy speaking to those climbers who have been at it much longer than I. We’ve all got a lot to learn, and perhaps one day I can say something to a younger climber that will stop him punching himself in the head! Who knows.
And I hope that when I am older I can look back on my climbing experiences fondly, and enjoy the memory of movement and fun, and not the memory of punching myself in the head!